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Leak Detection and Repair in Colorado Springs, CO

Repairing an accessible supply line leak in Colorado Springs runs $285 to $950. Slab leaks and leaks inside a wall sit above that because the pipe has to be located and reached first. We find the leak with acoustic and pressure equipment before any drywall or concrete comes out, so the opening is the size of the repair.

Signs you need this

  • The water bill jumped with no change in how you use water
  • The meter dial keeps moving with every fixture shut off
  • A warm patch on a floor slab, or a floor that stays damp
  • Staining or a bulge on a ceiling or a wall
  • A musty smell in a closet, a crawlspace or a basement corner
  • A hose bib that split after a cold night and now sprays inside the wall
  • Water pressure dropped across the whole house

Finding it before opening anything

The point of leak detection is to keep the hole in your house small. We start at the meter, isolate the building and watch whether the loss continues, which tells us whether the water is escaping inside or out on the service line. From there we use acoustic listening equipment, which picks up the specific hiss a pressurized line makes as it escapes, along with pressure testing on isolated sections and thermal imaging where a hot line is involved. Under a slab, a hot water leak often shows as a warm stripe across the floor long before anything looks wet.

What we open, and how it goes back

Once the leak is marked you get a flat price that covers getting to the pipe, making the repair and leaving the surface ready for patching. We cut the access opening square and we keep it as small as the repair allows. Drop cloths go down, dust gets contained and the debris leaves with us.

Materials and repair choices

The right repair depends on what the existing pipe is. Copper gets a soldered or press fitting in copper. PEX runs get a proper crimped or expansion fitting and a support where it passes a framing member. We do not mix a patchwork of fittings and push connectors inside a wall where nobody can ever inspect them. Where an old galvanized section has failed, a single patch is usually a false economy, because the rest of that run is the same age and the same thickness. In mid century homes around Fountain and Security-Widefield we will often quote replacing the whole run in copper or PEX alongside the spot fix, so you can choose.

Pressure, altitude and the freeze pattern here

High incoming pressure is a quiet cause of pinholes and fitting failures. If your static pressure is up above the normal working range, a pressure reducing valve protects every joint, every appliance hose and every toilet fill valve in the house. We gauge it on the first visit.

Our freeze calls follow a pattern. A warm sunny afternoon drops to a hard overnight low, and the lines that fail are the ones that had no protection against a sudden swing: hose bibs with a hose still attached, supply runs in a vented crawlspace, and pipe chased through an exterior wall in an older house. Manitou Springs and the Old North End see plenty of that. Insulating those runs, closing crawlspace vents for the winter and pulling hoses off in October prevents most of it.

After the repair

We bring the system back up, hold pressure on it and check the joint again once it has been under load for a while. Then we look at the area around the leak to make sure it is drying rather than holding water. If there is enough moisture in the structure to need drying equipment, we will tell you straight away so your insurer hears about it early.

How the work runs

  1. 1

    Confirm there is a leak

    We isolate the house at the meter and watch it. That separates a real leak from a running toilet flapper, and it tells us whether the loss is inside or out on the service line.

  2. 2

    Locate before opening

    Acoustic listening gear, pressure testing and thermal imaging narrow it to a spot. We mark it on the floor or the wall and show you the reading.

  3. 3

    Flat price for the repair

    Once we know what it is and where it is, you get one price covering access, the repair and putting the surface back to a patchable state.

  4. 4

    Repair, pressure test, dry out

    We make the repair in the correct material, bring the system back up and hold pressure on it, then check the surrounding area is drying rather than still wet.

What it typically costs

Job Typical range
Leak detection visit Credited against the repair when we do the work $185 to $450
Accessible supply line repair Exposed pipe in a basement, crawlspace or utility room $285 to $950
Split hose bib replaced Frost-free replacement, pitched to drain $275 to $650
In-wall or under-slab repair Access, repair method and the surface above all move this $950 to $3,500
Partial repipe of one run Common where galvanized pipe is failing in more than one place $1,400 to $4,500
Pressure reducing valve replaced High incoming pressure is a leading cause of repeat pinholes $350 to $750

Typical ranges for Colorado Springs and the surrounding area , reviewed September 2026. Every quote is written and fixed before work starts.

Leak repair questions

How do I know if I have a hidden leak?

Turn off every fixture and appliance in the house, then look at the water meter. If the low flow indicator is still creeping, water is going somewhere. Check the toilets first by dropping food coloring in the tank and waiting without flushing. If the bowls stay clear and the meter still moves, you have a leak in the pipework and it is worth finding quickly.

What do I do about a burst pipe right now?

Shut off the main valve. It is usually where the service line enters the house, often in a basement or crawlspace on the street side, and there is a meter pit shutoff at the curb as a backup. Then open the lowest faucet in the house to drain the system down. Turn off the water heater. Then call. Stopping the flow is what limits the bill.

Why did my hose bib split?

A hose left connected over winter is the usual cause. The hose traps water in the bib, that water freezes and expands, and the copper splits. You often see nothing until spring, when you turn the tap on and water sprays into the wall cavity behind it. Pull your hoses off every fall and let the bibs drain. A frost-free replacement has to be pitched down to work.

Do you have to break the slab?

Not always. Once the leak is located we look at the alternatives. Rerouting the affected line overhead or through a wall is often cheaper and less disruptive than opening concrete, especially if the run is short. When the slab does have to come up, accurate location means a small opening rather than an exploratory one. We show you the options and the prices for each.

Will homeowners insurance pay for this?

Most standard policies cover drying out and repairing the sudden water damage, while the cost of fixing the pipe itself is generally excluded. A slow leak that ran for months is often excluded too. Photograph everything before any cleanup, keep the failed section of pipe and call your carrier the same day. Our invoices are itemized so an adjuster can follow what was done.

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